Ashish Spring Summer Collection 2016
Why So Serious?
Michael Zager’s disco classic ‘Lets All Chant’ launched the festivities; smirking models on skateboards came rolling down in bunches throwing leftover sequins onto themselves and the front row. This set the scene, as though Ashish invited us to a children’s party. Set at Brewers Car Park, the simple space extended designers witty humour and not so serious fashion.
Ashish excited the audience with absolute fluidity though hued pastels, translucent fabrics and gender. Last year showcased an all-black model cast head-to-toe in rainbow sequined sport-wear; this year however unveiled a multi-cultural gay parade. The label also celebrates its 10 year anniversary at London Fashion Week.
It’s like a fetish
Ashish on sequins
The unisex sheer clothes had a childish naivety yet simultaneously a drag effect. The King of all things sparkly used an understated amount of glitter in comparison to the previous years; all outfits but a couple of outfits had sequins yet Ashish makes them simpler and more sophisticated.
Structured baby-doll and shift dresses with short puffed sleeves in chiffon and long-line transparent capes, in light shades of coloured sequins. Loose silhouettes in pink, white and navy had circular patches of sequins which could be seen as flowers or planets. Ripped and raw-edged denim dresses and co-ordination outfit had embroidered red heart shaped cut-outs; all in playful rainbow pumps with clashing lace finished socks and adding to the adolescent humour of the collection the models clutched embellished skateboards. Drag playfully not sleazy, male models in their dramatic makeup and as they strided down the catwalk in stiletto heels.
Sharon Dowsett, Makeup Director at Maybelline was in charge of the colourful sequined eyeliner and simplistic youthful faces while Ali Pirzadeh with L’Oreal focused on the models hairdos filled with sparkling confetti.
The Gay Parade
The collection saw both genders modelling womenswear ranging from cami-dresses to hot pants. DJ Larry B and Jay Boogie continued Ashish’s gender medley theme as they held hands down the runway whilst the others rolled up and down on skateboards.
“I always want my shows to be a celebration of subculture. And I felt Larry’s dress was an important statement in context to Caitlyn Jenner but also racial issues, too.” Ashish with Vogue UK
The collection’s show satirical stopper piece was worn by Larry B, consisted of a doodle of a naked woman’s body printed his nude coloured cami dress.
“you look for interesting people. When it’s a runway and generic models are coming on… For me it’s more like a movie, with actresses and actors” Ashish at iD
Tycoons of Instagram and Tumblr, Chloe Norgaard and Charlie Barker also joined the party on runway. Meanwhile on the front row contained singer MIA, presenter and model Billie JD Porter, upcoming artist M.O and model and insta-famous personality Elizabeth Jane Bishop.
“Only show I’m going to at LFW” M.I.A